Soaking Up Nature in the Sea of Cortez

Photo by Gordon Groene

Renee Weber, one of American Safari Cruises' naturalists, and Michael spot a whale.

The message from the bridge crackled over the loudspeaker and the kids scrambled for the deck as if it was Christmas morning. The gifts waiting for them were nature's best: whale tails flashed in the sun and, moments later, porpoise filled the churning sea. A gray whale breached, stunning everyone to silence.

Michael, 7, is a buzz saw of energy. At 11, Aidan is only slightly more laid-back. It takes whole teams of grownups to harness all this pep and we found it on board Safari Quest, a 22-passenger yacht that offers Kids in Nature (KIN) programs in Baja California and Alaska.

Photo courtesy of American Safari Cruises

Yachting, we knew, is far different from "love boat" cruises where children's programs are little more than babysitting. We sailed with 15 passengers and a crew of nine whose full-time task it was to keep all of us pumped up over the nature and history of this unique sea.

Where in the World?

Labeled the Gulf of California on some maps, the Sea of Cortez is also known by its Spanish spelling, Sea of Cortés. It's an 800-mile-long finger of clear sea between the mainland of Mexico and the Baja California Sur Peninsula. It's so isolated that its waters, flora, and fauna are unique. Some call it Galapagos North. Jacques Cousteau called it the biggest aquarium on earth.

We took the 90-minute flight from Los Angeles to Loreto, which has a small, modern airport. American Safari Cruises passengers are picked up there for a local tour and the ride to the boat.

Safari cruising is rugged compared to mega-ship cruises with stage shows, verandas, and private butlers. It's up-with-the-sun cruising that wakes with nature and, except for star gazing or a nature video after dark, the day wraps up soon after dinner.

Safari Quest cabins come in three classes. A-deck staterooms, furnished with a king-size bed or two twins, have floor-to-ceiling windows. On C deck, cabins have one double bed or two singles but only skylights, no view. On B deck are two cabins, one of them ideal for children because it has bunk beds. All cabins have a DVD player, twice-daily housekeeping and private baths with showers. Lavish meals are presented by cheerful, attentive servers. Everything, including wines and bar drinks, is included in the rates.

By dawn, an early riser's breakfast buffet is spread with coffee, juices, homemade muffins, cereal, yogurt, and fresh fruit. A hot breakfast is served later; hearty lunches are served at mid-day. The bar is always open but cocktail hour is officially on by late afternoon when canapés come out.

While adults relax with drinks, the kids — exhausted after hours of kayaking, snorkeling, whale watching, beach combing and water skiing — are happy to spread out on the salon floor with board games or a book. However, these aren't ordinary books and games. On KIN cruises, activities have to do with wildlife identification, creating a scrapbook, and appreciating the cultural and natural history of the area. The boys were having so much fun they didn't realize they were getting a semester at sea.

Dinner at 7 p.m. consists of three or four picture-perfect courses. Special dietary requirements can be accommodated with advance notice. Otherwise, dinner is a choice between the catch of the day, or meat, or poultry. The boys usually asked for chicken nuggets, always a staple on KIN cruises.

Photo by Gordon Groene

On a shore excursion, Aidan learns to spin alpaca wool in the ancient way,

Shore excursions gave us all an up-close look at Baja life. We explored 16th century Spanish missions at Loreto and La Paz. We visited a weaver and a potter. On board the skiff, we circled an island sea lion sanctuary, then slipped into the water with the sleek creatures. We hiked nature preserves and snorkeled through schools of brilliant fish. American Safari Cruises had already purchased special "passports" from the Mexican government, allowing us access to nature preserves.

Photo courtesy of American Safari Cruises

A mule wrangler rounded up his free-ranging burros, horses and mules and saddled them so we could ride deep into the hills. We went ashore on lonely Isla Coyote, where three generations of one family have been making their living by fishing since the 1920s. A hike up the hillside took us to the tiny schoolhouse and a chapel. While at sea, we gazed on a passing panorama of blue sky, shining sea, and jagged mountains peppered with cactus.

On most nights, the ship rocked us to sleep in tranquil bays, although the captain sometimes weighed anchor in the wee hours to make it to the next stop by first light. Schedules had to be flexible. After all, this wasn't a cruise; it was a safari.

Whales are threatened. Oceans are at risk. The world is changing. Yet whatever happens, nobody can take away from Michael and Aidan their week on the unforgettable Sea of Cortez.