Roots: The Chattahoochee Valley

History isn’t an easy sell to the iPhone generation, but dress it up with Indian wars, ladies in hoop skirts and villages where cornbread bakes over a wood fire, and young minds tune in.

A drive up one side of the Chattahoochee River and down the other takes you and yours through the heart of America’s Southern heritage. Separating Alabama and Georgia, the historic river links families descended from Native Americans, early settlers, and Civil War veterans. For present day action, the Chattahoochee offers boating, waterskiing and red-hot bass fishing.

As early as the 1500s, Spanish explorers described waterfalls at what is now Columbus, Ga. The Creek Indian village there was a crossroads, a trading post visited by virtually everyone who came through the region. Our road trip begins and ends there. From Columbus take U.S. 27 south to Bainbridge with a side trip to Lake Seminole, the bass fishing capital of the South. From Bainbridge, U.S. 84 takes you across the river to Dothan, Ala., where you can pick up U.S. 431 to drive north through Eufaula to Phenix City, Ala. From there, cross the river and you’re back at your starting point in Georgia.

This road trip can fill a three-day weekend, but take more time if possible. Just keep in mind that the river not only divides two states, but Eastern and Central time zones. Bridges span the water every 40 miles or so, but it’s less confusing to explore one side, then the other, so you don’t have to keep re-setting your watch.

Georgia Side, North to South

Photo courtesy of National Civil War Naval Museum

In Columbus, the Riverwalk bordering the Chattahoochee runs for 15 paved miles. Bring a picnic lunch. Hike, bicycle, push a stroller or cast a line in the river. A major flyway for migrating species, the river is a birder’s delight, so pack a bird book and binoculars. Older children will enjoy the city’s Coca-Cola Space Science Center with its interactive NASA exhibits and replicas of an Apollo capsule and space shuttle. The city was the site of a Confederate naval shipyard, and is home to the National Civil War Naval Museum, the only one of its kind.

Providence Canyon State Park shows kids old-time farm life and demonstrates how erosion can destroy the land. Deeply sculpted canyons are striking; nature paths are filled with discoveries; and the movie at the visitor center is fast-paced enough for ages 10 and over.

Photo by Janet Groene

Devote at least half a day to Westville pioneer village at Lumpkin, where the year is always 1850. You’ll meet “pioneers” making soap, baking, quilting, tending crops, blacksmithing, and even attending school. Tour a real courthouse, furnished homes, and shops. Sample dishes at the budget-priced restaurant, or bring a picnic to eat under a shade tree.

At Kolomoki Mounds Historic Park, enter the oldest era in Georgia history. See seven ancient Indian mounds, including the oldest great temple mound found in Georgia. Then continue south to Bainbridge to see historic homes, attend a riverfront festival or rent water sports equipment at the marina. The city has modest motels but it’s more fun to stay in a motel room or the campground at Jack Wingate’s Lodge on Lake Seminole. Fishing boats and guides are available to help you land a lunker — a big bass — but catfish head the menu at the rustic lodge restaurant.

The Alabama Side, South to North

Photo courtesy of Landmark Park

Chattahoochee Park offers fishing, hiking, and picnic sites on 596 acres along the Alabama side of the river. You’ll find plenty of hotel rooms and restaurants in Dothan, as well as the excellent Wiregrass Museum of Art. The 1913 power plant turned museum is stroller-friendly and has hands-on fun for all ages. Outside Dothan, Landmark Park is a community of pioneer dwellings and farm buildings. Kids love its live animals and old-style soda fountain that still serves up cold concoctions.

Headed back north now, U.S. 431 is the quick way to Eufaula — the city — and to Eufaula National Wildlife Refuge. Along the way, stop at Abbeville, Ala., a small city frozen in time. It’s the perfect place to show the grandkids what life was like in your day and in your grandparents’ day. Stroll the old-fashioned town square, then eat at Huggin’ Molly’s.

Photo courtesy of Eufaula Heritage Association Pilgrimage Tour

Old houses don’t hold much magic for rambunctious kids, but romance-minded teens will love Eufaula’s mansions. The lavish Shorter Mansion, built in 1884, and antebellum Fendall Hall are open year round. Dozens more historic homes welcome visitors once a year during the Pilgrimage tour, next scheduled for April 4-6, 2008.

Eufaula National Wildlife Refuge is one of the south’s great nature realms. Hike the trails with your older grandkids, or drive the auto tour route and observe while little ones nap. A huge habitat covering 3,000 wetland acres, 1,000 grassland acres, 2,000 acres of woodlands and 4,000 acres of open water, it’s a never-ending show starring ducks, geese, wood storks, sandhill cranes, raptors, waterfowl, and songbirds.

The Chattahoochee River has been a living highway for mankind since before recorded history. Let it whisper its secrets to those bright grandkids of yours.